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The Phantom of the Menu: Chatham Cod

April 02, 2008

New York Times
April 2, 2008
By Julia Moskin

It was a beautiful relationship while it lasted.

For almost 300 years, the town of Chatham, Mass., could rely on a year-round supply of cod. And starting in the 1980s, when fish began traveling by FedEx, New York chefs could rely on Chatham’s fishermen for day boat cod: fish that go from ocean to kitchen in under 36 hours. Right now, day boat Chatham cod is on upscale menus all over town, at restaurants like Upstairs at Bouley and Adour Alain Ducasse, where fat white fillets are simmered nightly in golden olive oil.

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